This page contains the full process of making your custom design from start to finish. This includes sketching, materials, patterning, test garment fittings, and, of course, constructing the final garment once everything has been perfected. The sections below are written to be as detailed as possible; however, anyone is welcome, if not encouraged, to contact me about anything they don't understand or hasn't been mentioned.
Sketches
Sketching time varies depending on the creative aspect of the project. Some might not need a sketch and could go directly into materials search and patterning, while others might need to be drawn out in extensive detail. In the case that sketches are needed, this is typically a collaborative effort, where I would draw out the sketch(es) and send them to you for feedback. You can also draw the sketches yourself and send them to me to help explain what you’re hoping to have.
Materials
The materials involve anything that is needed for the design. These include fabric, trims, hardware, embellishments and any other important notions for structure and/or overall appearance. You also have a few options to decide from for how we can obtain these materials. The first option I would be able to give is to view my current fabric inventory. During the consultation, I will have a swatchbook on hand for you to look through. This contains not only what fabrics I have available but also the quantities I have them in. If none of the materials I have appeal to you, then we’ll instead figure out how and where to obtain what you’re looking for.
In the case that I would be getting the materials myself, I typically will buy from either small businesses online or from the local deadstock warehouse known as SR Harris. Either the client can tag along and look through SR’s inventory with me, or communicate with me remotely, as I send photos and descriptions of what I see for potential options. Any materials I buy and use for the project will be added to the quote that will be given at the end.
You also have the option to provide your own materials for me to use! In this case, if you don’t already have materials on hand, I would supply a checklist of the things that are needed. Anywhere you would like to purchase these materials from is up to you, as long as you can ensure that it will all arrive to me in a timely manner. Regardless, none of the items you choose to get for me will be included in the final cost.
If you are unsure about what materials you want me to use, this is when I would hold off on those for the time being and begin working on the patterns and muslin test garments first. Through this, we can see how a standard cotton responds to a given silhouette, and determine whether parts of the final garment should be in a material that’s similar in structure or completely different. More information on this can be found in the “Patterns & Test Garments” page.
Patterns & Test Garments
The process for patterns varies, depending on the complexity of the garments being made. Simple patterns can be drafted from scratch or from base slopers, while others may need to be either traced from an existing garment, or altered from a similar pre-downloaded pattern set (the latter of which I always provide credit for the original patternmaker). If you have a pattern set you’d like me to use or garments you’d like me to borrow and draft patterns from, you are welcome to provide those for me as well!
The test garments are typically made from either cotton muslin, similar fabrics from what you would like to use for the final product, or a combination of both. They are also not fully finished, but rather sewn together enough to save time, as well as be able to easily check and make adjustments to the overall fit (example: seams, darts, sleeves, and neck pieces or inner structures (if applicable) are straight-stitched, but seam allowances and hem edges are left raw). At least one set of test garments is made for the design; however, a second or even third set may need to be constructed, depending on the number and complexity of adjustments needed for the patterns.
Fittings for these test garments are typically required to be conducted in person, but virtual fittings may be allowed in specific cases. This can be related to certain disabilities, inability to commute to the studio location, or if you're a resident outside of the state of Minnesota. Feel free to contact me if you need any more information about this accommodation.
Final Garments
The final products will be cut and sewn after all the patterns are altered to fit properly. This part of the process takes up the majority of the time frame, as it includes seam finishes, closures, lining, hardware and/or embellishments, etc. An additional fitting can be requested midway through the final construction if you’re still concerned about the fit. Fitting or not, expect the finished piece to be completed around 1 week before the given deadline at the latest!
After the garments are complete, you are more than welcome to try everything on to see how you look and feel in them! Minor alterations can still be made to the overall fit if needed; however, at this point, there would likely not be time for any dramatic changes to the appearance (i.e., remaking a garment entirely, changing an item from one silhouette to another, etc.). Upon scheduling the final pickup, we’ll also discuss the additional quote of what is left for the cost, as well as your preferences for sharing on social media (especially if you plan to have photos professionally taken).